Method  of making- boots and shoes



Reissued Feb. 3, 1931 PATENT OFFICE BENJAMIN w. FREEMAN, or CINCINNATI, onIo METHOD OF MAKING BOOTS AND SHOES No Drawing. Original application filed November 27, 1923, Serial No. 677,319. Divided and this application filed May 31, 1928. Serial No, 282,056. Original No. 1,745,668, dated February 4, 1930. Application for reissue filed November 26, 1930. Serial No. 498,504.

My present invention is an improved and novel process in the manufacture of boots and shoes, having cut out uppers, and relates particularly to'the method of reenforcing such shoe uppers in order that the lasting operation will not unduly distort the cut out designs, the present case being a division of my copending application, Ser. No. 677,319,

filed Nov. 27 ,1923, now Patent No. 1,675,295, issued June 26, 1928.

In the manufacture of boots and shoes, particularly ladies shoes, low cut shoes, pumps, slippers, sandals and the like, it is very important to form cut out designs on ,5 the shoe uppers, some of which are of very intricate and involved contour, which designs, in order to be made, are cut out of the shoe uppers before the uppers are assembled on a shoe last, and consequently before the lasting operation. The subsequent lasting operation wherein the leather is stretched,

ulled, and worked over a last would normal y tend to distort practically all cut out designs, and hence ruin the completed shoe.

In order to protect the shoe upper while permitting the cut out operation, before, assembly, particularly on the last, it is important to' apply reenforcing materials, lining, layers or strengthening devices.

In my parent application, above referred to, I have explained and claimed various methods of reenforcing, and in the prior patent to B. B. Brodfeuhrer, No. 1,605,916, issued Nov. 9, 1926, other reenforcing methv ods are described and claimed.

In the present application I have elected to claim the reenforcing method or process which consists, generally, in assembling the shoe upper materials, usually comprising the 4 vamp, quarters, and lining over all, or a portion of the same, and associating therewith, preferably between the upper and the lining, or a part of the same, a reenforcing layer or sheet. This reenforcing layer may be of a, canvas, textile material, or any other matogether. .Thereupon the shoe upper, when terial desired, and may be of sufficient extent to cover the part of the shoe upper intended to be cut out, and also may be sufficient to be included in one or more of the lines of stitching uniting the shoe upper materials 0 fitted or formed, is subjected to the cutting out operation as now commercially practiced wherein the upper and lining, and the associated. reenforcements are cut entirely through, and substantial openwork sections are removed therefrom. By having the shoe upper material, such as leather, suede or the like outer surface, and the'interior lining, covering and enclosing the reenforcing layer, the latter may be left permanently within the shoe after the out out action, the reenforcing layer having performed its function of preventing the distorting of the openwork designs during the lasting operation.

.Formerly it was considered necessary to make the shoe and lining in the usual way, then apply the reenforcing, either .outside or inside, and remove the same, while one of the features of my present invention is directed to cover and protect the feature of permitting the reenforcing layer to be left within'the shoe, particularly when it is incorporated thereinbetween the outer upper materials and the lining, or a portion of the same.

It will, therefore, be seen that in accordance with this invention, the upper is prepared for lasting by associating reenforcing material with the upper material in the cut out region, (that is the region where the open- 50 work or cut out design is to be located), in order to form a fitted or closed upper which is reenforced in the cut out region; the openwork or design is then formed by cutting through the upper and reenforcing materials of the fitted or closed upper. In accordance with an embodiment of this invention, the reenforcing material is permanently united with the upper material in the cut out region, and this may be accomplished, as heretofore highly desirable, therefore, that the shape of the fitted or closed upper be left unimpaired and that the same be not distorted during the cutting operation. As heretofore described, the fitted or closed reenforced upper commercially practiced. That operation is fully described in the parent application (nowPatent No. 1,675,295), wherein it is stated that this operation can be performed by means preferably of the machine shown in my copending application Ser. No. 678,213, filed December 3, 1923, (now Patent-No. 1,681,033, ranted August 18, 1924).

[butthe desired openwork "design; this niathe same thereon to locate the cut out region chine being provided with a gauging means in'th'e form of a mask to'aline the work in orderto properly locate the cutout region with respect to the cutting anvil or die. 1

In accordance with an embodiment of this invention therefore, the fitted or closed upper, reenforced in the cut out region,-is subjected to the cutting operation to form the openwork or design, while the fitted or closed reenfoiced upper is supported interiorly by placing the work on a support and alining with respect to the cutting means; This is an important feature "of this invention because the shape of the fitted or closed re- ,enforced upper is left unimpaired and distortion thereof is obviated. No preliminary marking-of the design on the .upper isrequired; for the work is supported as well as alined to locate the cut out region with reference to the cutting means.

' The method or process, embodying this invention is of particular utility in the making of low cut shoes. In low cut shoes, the cutouts are placed in the fitted upper where the latter forms a sliaped,'closed in structure. If

such a fitted-or closed upper is even partially I laid out fiat, it tends to loosen up or to be otherwise distorted; indeed, in mostinstances, it is-not practical to layout a portion of such an upper on ablock'where the cut-out.

design is usually laced. By, however, supporting such a, tted or closed upper interiorly, as by placing the same on a support,

: the shape is left'unimpaired and distortion,

hereof is obviated.

departing fron the spirit of this invention.

It is, therefore, to' be understood that this invention isnot to be limited to the specific details and operations described.

y Havingthus described my invention, what is Sub ected to a cuttlngoperation'as now I claim as new is:

v 1. The improved process of making boots and shoes having cut out portions, which consists in associating reenforcing material with the upper and lining, and then cutting out said openwork portions through upper, lining, and reenforcelnent before lasting, rely- Th ing upon the reenforcing to prevent distor- :machineb that patent isprovided with a cutting anvil orcutting die, provides-a suit-. able support and has provisionsto form or per materials, which consists in uniting a'plu-' rality of upper sections together with a reenforcement, and thereupon cutting out by a simultaneousaction the said upper, lining,

and reenforcing, and then assembling the upper with a sole, lasting, and completing the shoe.

3. The improved process of manufacturing shoes whlch consists in associating an upper, its lining, and reenforcing material together, cutting out a decorative design on a predetermined portion of the upper, the lining and the reenforcing material between the upper and the lining adjacent to the cutout design, lasting the shoe while maintaining undisturbed the relative positions of the reirn'a ning upper and remainingreenforcing material, and thencompleting the manufacture of the shoe. I j

4. The improved process of manufacturing shoes which'consists in associating an upper,

its lining, and reenforcing'materialybetween the upper and-the lining adjacent to the design to be cut out, cutting out a decorative design on a predeterminedportion of the upper, the lining and the reenforcing material, lasting the shoe while maintaining undisturbed the relative positions of the remaining upper and remaining reenforcingkmaterial,

and then completingthe manufacture of the shoe.

, 5. In the art of making boots and shoes having out out uppers, the process ofpreparing the uppervfor lasting comprising, associating reenforcing material with the upper material in the cut out region to form a fitted or closed upper which is reenforced in the cut out region, and cutting through the upper and reenforcing materials of the fitted or closed upper.

6. In the art of making boots and shoes having cut out uppers, the process of preparing the upper for lasting comprising, associating reen'forcing material with the upper material in the cut out region to form a fitted or closed upper which is reenforced in the cut out region, and cutting through the uper and reenforcing material while the shape of the fitted or closed upper is left unimpaired.

7. In the art of making boots and shoes having cut out uppers, the process of preparing the upper for lasting comprising, associating reenforcing material with the upper material in the cut out region to form a fitted or closed upper which is reenforced in the cut out region, and cutting through the upper and reenforcing material while the work is supported interiorly.

8. In the art of having cut out uppers, the process of preparing the upper for lasting comprising, associating reenforcing material with the up er material in the cut out region to form a tted or closed upper which is reenforced in the cut out region, supporting the work and aligning the same while so supported to locate the cut out region, and cutting through the upper and reenforcing material while so supported and aligned.

9. In the art of making boots and shoes having out out uppers, the process of preparing the upper for lasting comprising, associating reenforcing material with the upper material in the cut out region to form a fitted or closed upper which is reenforced in the cut out region, supporting the work interiorly of the fitted or closed reenforced upper, aligning the work while so supported to locate the cut out region and cutting through the reenforced upper while so supported and aligned.

10. In the art of making boots and shoes having cut out uppers, the process of preparing the upper for lasting comprising,

permanently uniting reenforcing material with the upper material in the cut out re gion to form a fitted or closed upper which is permanently reenforced in the cut out region, and cutting through the upper and reenforcing materials while the shape of the fitted or closed upper is left unimpaired.

11. In the art of making boots and shoes having cut out uppers, the process of preparing the upper for lasting comprising, securing reenforcing material between the upper and lining in the cut out region to form a fitted or closed upper which is reenforced in the cut out region, and cutting through the upper,

making boots and shoes I while the shape of the fitted or closed upper is left unimpaired.

12. In the art of making boots and shoes having cut out uppers, the process of preparing the upper for lasting comprising, securing reenforcing material between the upper and lining in the cut out region to form a fitted or closed upper which is reenforced in the cut out region, supporting the work and aligning the same while so supported to locate the cut out region, and cutting through the upper, lining and reenforcement while so supported and aligned.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature this 20th day of November, 1930.

BENJAMIN W. FREEMAN.

lining and reenforcing 

